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Darwin Correspondence Project

From W. J. L. Wharton   14 August 1878

H.M.S. “Fawn” | At Sea off Zanzibar

Aug 14th 1878

Dear Sir

With reference to your Coral Reefs 2nd Ed. Page 243. 244. I am in a position to inform you as to the true facts regarding the Nature of the Farquhar Is (Juan de Nova) Cosmoledo, & Aldabra having just completed a survey of those islands.1

They are all true atolls elevated from 10 to 20 feet Aldabra the most; hence I imagine the shallowness of their lagoons none of which are navigable.

Farquhar has had its upraised coral nearly entirely washed away, but it remains it places still to prove its existence. The islands of this small group are all low & covered with blown sand and are reduced nearly to a condition which will not alter.

Cosmoledo Islands are still in many places faced by coral cliffs about 10 ft high, washing away. When these have disappeared the islands are also sand covered. Isolated and undermined rocks & islets of coral connect the main islands on the ring and mark the line of original upheaved reef very distinctly

Aldabra presents externally a uniform face of coral cliff to the sea of course undermined and in process of destruction by the waves. Inside the mangrove is destroying the coral even more rapidly and reducing it to that white mud which is so familiar to me on the East Coast of Africa. I could not level from the highest part to the sea but it must be at least 20 feet above low water.2 The entire ring is perfect with the exception of three breaks, two apparently original, and one recently formed by the disintegration of the coral, for it is quite shallow. There is little or no sand on this island. It is covered with a stiff & tangled brush.

The coast on the North part of Madagascar is faced with upraised coral about 15 feet high. Behind is basalt.

Apparently the upheaval in this part of the world has had a tilting motion, as the coast of Africa is raised in places to over 100 feet.

While mentioning Aldabra it may interest you to know that the tortoises are now very scarce.3 Fishing parties from Seychelles have nearly exterminated them but we got one after much search & trouble. We found a little water in this the dry season in the cavities of the rocks and doubtless there is more at other seasons. There is a succulent aloe on which the reptiles probably feed, but the life of a tortoise or any thing else in Aldabra is not enviable for the surface of the island is rock, rough & jagged to a degree, so that it puzzles me how they get about. Our searchers were simply torn to pieces, boots, clothes & bodies. I think I am safe in saying that no one will inhabit Aldabra for thousands of years.

Believe me Sir | Yours truly | W J L Wharton | Commander R.N.

C. Darwin Esq. | L.L.D. FRS.

Footnotes

In Coral reefs 2d ed., pp. 243–4, CD noted that Juan de Nova (renamed Farquhar Islands) was an atoll according to some plans but not others; Cosmoledo was described as an atoll as was Aldabra, although in this case, CD speculated that it might be the crater of a volcano. All the islands mentioned are part of the Seychelles, an island group in the Indian Ocean north of Madagascar.
Wharton uses the term ‘level’ in a surveying context; that is, ascertaining the differences of level in a piece of land. Wharton was commander of HMS Fawn, which surveyed the east coast of Africa from 1876 to 1880 (ODNB).
In his monograph of 1877, Albert Günther described four species of giant tortoises in the Aldabra group of islands (Günther 1877, pp. 18–40). For more on the history of the giant tortoise population in the area, see Gerlach et al. 2013.

Bibliography

Coral reefs 2d ed.: The structure and distribution of coral reefs. By Charles Darwin. Revised edition. London: Smith, Elder & Co. 1874.

Günther, Albert Charles Lewis Gotthilf. 1877. The gigantic land-tortoises (living and extinct) in the collection of the British Museum. London: Trustees of the British Museum.

ODNB: Oxford dictionary of national biography: from the earliest times to the year 2000. (Revised edition.) Edited by H. C. G. Matthew and Brian Harrison. 60 vols. and index. Oxford: Oxford University Press. 2004.

Summary

Gives results of recently completed survey of islands in the Seychelle group mentioned in Coral reefs, 2d ed., pp. 243–4.

Letter details

Letter no.
DCP-LETT-11657
From
William James Lloyd Wharton
To
Charles Robert Darwin
Sent from
HMS Fawn , Zanzibar
Source of text
DAR 69: A76–7
Physical description
ALS 4pp

Please cite as

Darwin Correspondence Project, “Letter no. 11657,” accessed on 25 April 2024, https://www.darwinproject.ac.uk/letter/?docId=letters/DCP-LETT-11657.xml

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